Derek Sarno’s ‘Dream’ Project Turns Chicken Farm Into Mushroom Growing Operation

Mushrooms represent a sustainable and nutritious alternative to traditional meat

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3 Minutes Read

Photo shows chef Derek Sarno wearing PPE and holding up a handful of bright white, layered mushrooms to the camera Derek Sarno has long advocated for the sustainability and nutrient-density of mushrooms - Media Credit: Oh Brother Creative

Chef Derek Sarno has partnered with The Little Mushroom Co. and Smithy Mushrooms to turn a former chicken farm into a sustainable mushroom-growing operation.

Read more: ‘Transfarmation’ Stories: The Farmers Switching From Animals To Crops

According to Sarno, several similarities between chicken farming and mushroom farming make such a transition possible. Writing on LinkedIn, he said that the first-of-its-kind project was one that he “once dreamed of making happen” a decade ago.

“What if less water, less land, and minimal resources could create healthier, more sustainable, delicious food,” Sarno wrote. “This isn’t a theory anymore – it’s real.”

Located in Norfolk, England, the old chicken breeding farm was one of the very first of its kind in the UK. Built in the 1960s for the very start of the national broiler industry, Sarno’s team has smoothly repurposed its various buildings and sheds to produce large crops of mushrooms.

Sarno spearheaded the culinary vision for the project but has emphasized that it’s a collaborative effort. Harry Irwin and Claire Bullen at The Little Mushroom Company are driving the transition itself, with the guidance of John Dorrian of Smithy Mushrooms.

Read more: Derek Sarno On His Career, Life After Tesco, And The Vast Power Of Mushrooms

Mushroom project is ‘redefining how we farm and cook’

Photo shows someone standing between two tall, long rows of growing mushrooms in an old farm building
Oh Brother Creative Sarno noted that similarities between chicken farming and mushroom growing made the project possible

Sarno is perhaps best known for co-founding Wicked Kitchen with his brother Chad. The pair spearheaded Tesco’s now-significant plant-based range, including a variety of dishes that placed the versatile and nutritious mushroom front and center.

Demand for mushrooms has grown significantly in recent years, and Smithy Mushrooms reportedly nearly tripled in size between 2019 and 2022. The company also cited increased interest in exotic varieties like oyster mushrooms, which are particularly versatile.

Sarno regularly posts innovative mushroom recipes on his social media, and he’s particularly renowned for his famous lion’s mane mushroom steak. “I’ve worked with these mushrooms for years and know how they can replace meaty textures in almost every sense, surprising both chefs and home cooks alike,” explained Sarno in a statement. “We’re not just swapping chickens for mushrooms; we’re redefining how we farm and cook. And this transformation wouldn’t have been possible without the incredible teamwork behind it.”

The project was documented by Oh Brother Creative in a short film titled The Future Of Cooking Is About To Change Forever,  which is available now on YouTube.

Read more: Using Mushrooms As Meat: The Ultimate Guide

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