In a large bowl, combine the gluten flour, chickpea flour and nutritional yeast. In another bowl, whisk together stock, oils, soy sauce, tomato paste, Vegemite or Marmite (dissolved in a bit of hot water if needed), liquid smoke, herbs, and crushed garlic.

Pour the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients and mix to form a cohesive, firm dough. Adjust with more gluten flour if too wet or more water if too dry. Knead well for 2 minutes until the dough becomes firmer and the gluten activates.

Wrap the dough with kitchen twine. This is mainly for appearances, but it can also help hold the seitan together as it cooks.

Place seitan in a pot or bowl and add wine, onion, celery, carrot, garlic, and herbs. Cover and refrigerate for several hours or overnight, turning occasionally to ensure even soaking.

Strain the wine, reserving both wine and vegetables.

In a large pot, heat 3 tablespoons of vegan butter and a glug of olive oil. Sear seitan on each side until it forms a brown crust, then remove it from the pot.

Add the reserved vegetables to the pot and and sauté for a few minutes, adding more oil if needed.

Return the seitan to the pot, pour in the reserved wine marinade, and stir in the stock powder. If the seitan isn't mostly covered by the wine marinade, top up with water.

Simmer on very low heat for 50 minutes, ensuring the cooking broth doesn’t boil to avoid ruining the seitan's texture. Turn the seitan several times during cooking.

Once cooked, remove the seitan and continue simmering the wine broth over a high heat, reducing it for 10 minutes. Allow the seitan to cool completely before serving. It improves in texture when allowed to rest overnight. Reheat when ready to serve.

For the gravy, use an immersion blender to blend about 200 ml of the wine broth along with the cooked vegetables (remove herbs first). Blend in melted vegan butter until smooth.

In a medium saucepan, bring 1 liter of water to a boil. Add large dashes of salt. Pour polenta in a slow steady stream, whisking briskly as you pour. Lower the heat, cover, and simmer for 5 minutes or according to your polenta package instructions.

Stir occasionally to prevent the polenta from sticking. Remove from heat and stir in the vegan butter and vegan Parmesan or nutritional yeast. Serve immediately.

For a Piemontese style, arrange the seitan roast, carved or whole, on a bed of freshly made soft polenta. Drizzle over some of the gravy, reserving extra on the side.