In a large bowl, mix together the rice flour, both starches, and the salt. Pour in the water while stirring to combine, breaking up any lumps of flour, until you get a smooth batter with the consistency of thick, runny glue.

In a wok or a wide pot with a tight-fitting lid, add 3 inches [7.5 cm] of water and bring to a boil over high heat. Lightly oil a shallow baking pan and place it on the water so that it floats on the surface, or use a steamer rack to rest the pan above the water line. Use a ladle to pour about 1⁄3 cup [80 ml] of the batter into the pan (1 to 2 mm thick).

Use steamer tongs to tip the pan slightly so that the entire base of the pan is evenly coated with batter. If there are visible holes in the noodle’s surface, spoon in a little more batter to fill it. Cover the pot and steam for 3 to 5 minutes until opaque.

Carefully lift the pan out of the water and let it rest on the countertop for 1 minute before rolling the noodle up from one edge to the other, tipping it out of the pan onto a plate. I prefer rinsing and quickly drying the pan after each noodle roll, as some bits get stuck on the bottom, but it’s not necessary. Repeat until all the batter is used. Make sure to stir the batter each time before pouring it into the prepared pan.

In two separate small bowls, combine the peanut sauce ingredients in one and the hoisin sauce ingredients in the other until both sauces are smooth and slightly runny. Drizzle onto the rice noodle rolls, along with a squirt of sriracha, if using, a sprinkle of toasted sesame seeds, and Chinese parsley and scallions, and serve.